The Summer of Modesty

With summer comes the dreaded season of swimwear shopping. But this year's retro-glam looks may ease some of the angst.

The latest suits hark back to the relatively chaste looks of Hollywood's heyday, with low leg cuts, high-waisted bikini bottoms, shirred and gathered fabric, and tops that offer fuller coverage.

While modesty may be a result, it isn't the aim. "We're finding that women really are responding to glamour in bathing suits," says designer and television's "Project Runway" host Michael Kors.

On the high-fashion side, swimsuits shown on the runway by Dolce & Gabbana, Prada and other designers for this summer evoke mid-20th-century looks worn by bombshells Esther Williams or Sophia Loren. There are modern versions at many price and design levels, from designer lines such as Malia Mills, where suits can cost several hundred dollars, to fast-fashion outlets such as H&M , where a vintage-look bikini will set you back $24.95.

Modern stretch materials allow swim designers to combine glam designs with athletic functionality—suits that Mr. Kors calls "hybrid with a wink to the past." Two of his suits are shown on Olympic hopefuls Hope Solo and Serena Williams on the June cover of Vogue magazine. The swimsuits are alluring—Ms. Williams's suit of shimmery gold fabric is shirred around the torso—but wouldn't flash too much in a mean round of beach volleyball.